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Category: From The Studio
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What is a House Cut, and Why Don’t We Have One?
Walk into a Savile Row tailor and you’ll often hear the term House Cut mentioned with pride. It’s the tailor’s signature silhouette, their way of saying: “This is who we are.” You can almost identify the maker before you even look at the label. The slightly roped shoulder, the nipped waist, the high armhole. Each detail part of a visual language that’s been refined, protected, and passed down for generations.

It’s a beautiful concept, and in many ways, it’s what built the mythology of British tailoring. Anderson & Sheppard have their drape tailoring. Huntsman have that clean, military precision. Gieves & Hawkes lean towards structure and order. Each house has its own rhythm, its own visual accent.
But at Edinburgh Tailoring Company, we don’t have one. Not because we couldn’t, but because we don’t believe in it.
A House Cut, by definition, is about the house. The tailor’s identity, not the client’s. It’s the shop’s signature on your sleeve. And while that can be comforting to those who want to feel part of a heritage, it also creates a quiet limitation. You walk in, and before you’ve even been measured, your silhouette has already been decided.
We believe in something different. We believe the cut should come from you.

We work with people of every build, age, gender, and background. One day we’re fitting a finance director who wants a sharp three-piece to project confidence; the next, we’re building an unstructured linen suit for an artist who hates the feeling of wearing one. There’s no such thing as a single cut that works for both. The cloth changes, the purpose changes, and most importantly, the person changes.
That’s why we don’t hold one silhouette sacred. We hold fit sacred. The architecture of balance, proportion, and comfort is our constant. But how those elements combine? That’s up to the person standing in front of the mirror.
Of course, we have preferences. We like a jacket that sits naturally on the shoulders, that flatters the waist without pulling, that lets you move. We like trousers that hang cleanly, not cling. We’re drawn to classic shapes that feel contemporary rather than trendy. But these are guiding principles, not fixed laws. A good tailor knows how to flex, not dictate.
The truth is, a House Cut can be a comfort blanket for a tailoring brand. It’s a way of saying, “This is our style, take it or leave it.” But bespoke, at its core, is supposed to be the opposite of that. It’s not about identity through imitation; it’s about identity through individuality.
Every so often, we’ll have a client ask, “What’s your cut like?” And the answer is: It depends on you. That usually earns a pause, followed by a small smile, because that’s when they realise they’re not here to fit into our idea of perfection, they’re here to define their own.

We’ve seen the same person transformed by a suit that truly fits them. The posture changes. Shoulders relax naturally. There’s a quiet confidence that no brand cut can replicate. That’s the magic of tailoring when it’s done right. When it’s about the person, not the house.
If we ever had a House Cut, it would be a ready to wear range. Because every pattern that leaves our studio belongs to someone else’s story, not ours. And we rather like it that way.
So perhaps our “house style” is simply this: we listen first.
Over to you:
What do you think? Should a tailor have a signature style, or should every suit start with a blank page? Let us know your thoughts below. -
New Harris Tweed Alert

Today, we were blessed to receive the new Harris Tweed collection from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, and WOW. I’m absolutely blown away by the range of colours and patterns in this new bunch.
There’s something magical about Harris Tweed. You can feel the story behind it before you even cut the cloth. Every metre begins in the Outer Hebrides, where the rhythm of the looms still echoes through croft houses on the islands of Lewis and Harris. This is one of the few fabrics in the world that is literally protected by law. To earn the Harris Tweed Orb certification, every inch must be dyed, spun, and handwoven at the weaver’s own home, using pure virgin wool and traditional methods passed down through generations.

That’s what makes Harris Tweed so special. It’s not factory made. It’s human made. Every check, herringbone, and windowpane carries the fingerprint of its maker. When you tailor with it, you’re continuing a story that began long before your shears touch the cloth.
This new Volume II collection from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds captures all of that history and channels it through a modern lens. The bunch is an explosion of colour and character. Deep reds, heather purples, and mustard yellows sit alongside timeless blues, greens, and earthy browns. There are bold tartans that demand attention, and subtle plains that whisper quality. The textures are dense yet surprisingly supple, perfect for winter tailoring and unstructured jackets alike.
At 15 to 16oz, these cloths strike the balance between strength and drape. They feel reassuringly weighty in the hand but still cut beautifully. I’ve already picked out a few favourites for the studio. There’s a navy and amber check that would make a spectacular belted field jacket, and a grey and rust windowpane that has “three-piece suit” written all over it.

For me, working with Harris Tweed is always a privilege. It connects the craft of tailoring here in Edinburgh to a tradition of making that has survived storms, modernisation, and time itself. Every bolt carries that famous Orb label, proof that it was handwoven in the Outer Hebrides, and to me, that’s still one of the greatest symbols of authenticity in our trade.
If you’ve been thinking about a winter jacket, an overcoat, or even a bold casual blazer, this collection is absolutely worth a look. Come into the studio, flick through the bunch, and you’ll see exactly what I mean. Some fabrics impress you. This one moves you.
